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Help on determining what load data to go with for my casted boolits?

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Help on determining what load data to go with for my casted boolits?   Empty Help on determining what load data to go with for my casted boolits?

Post by victor8881 Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:34 pm

I'm using a Lee two cavity mold, that claims to produce a 9mm .356 125gr RN boolit. After maybe 1000 produced using strictly wheel weights, I'm producing .360 diameter RN boolits, but the weight averages in the 127.3 range. I did weigh some boolits that were 126 and as high as 128.2, but for the most part I'm staying around the 127.3 range. My question is, using my Lee reload manual book should I stick to the 125gr lead bullet data and just start with the minimum charge for the powder of my choice and see how this works? Or should I move up to the 128gr data and start with the minimum charge for my powder and test from there?

Of course I'm resizing the boolits back down to .356 with my resizing die.....

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Post by Reload3006 Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:40 pm

I think i would go with the 128 gr data if you have it. and work up from there. as long as you dont stick one in your barrel you should be ok. and I would constantly be checking for extreme leading. if no over pressure and no leading is in evidence and you find a load that preforms well thats the way i'd go.
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Post by Daywalker Wed Nov 24, 2010 10:57 pm

I agree with what Reload3006 is stating. I would give that a try and see how it goes.

Wheel weights always weigh much different than what the molds produces. For example, and I know it is wierd, Lyman builds their moulds with their alloy mix of Lyman #2. This was the conversation between Lyman and myself when the 2 moulds they sold me would not produce the correct diamter. After sending the one mould back to them twice, (Midwayusa exchanged the other one no question asked) Lyam recut the mould and still same thing too small of a diameter. Asking for my money back, they told me there was no gaurantee what the diameter is going to be, however, after a few e-mails later, they did refund me my money...
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Post by billarrington Fri Nov 26, 2010 10:05 am

like was said go with the 128 gr data and work up... i maybe in my own boat, but i cast to save money, and i use the least amount of powder to get them to shoot decent allowing me to shoot more for less money...if the price of those dang primers would come down now id be set...

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Post by Daywalker Fri Nov 26, 2010 10:49 am

Bill, we will have to work on reloading your primers for ya Wink We could use you a ginny pig?? LOL
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Post by Reload3006 Fri Nov 26, 2010 4:06 pm

I'm fortunate in that i live really close to Grafs n Sons retail outlet in St. Charles Mo. When they have a big sale on Primers I buy up a block. And I have to say that i was very fortunate that I did that because its just now that you can get primers again. Last i bought was a 5000 lot of 209s but every once in a while they have a sale like that and i stock up. They dont go bad ive used some that I know are over 30 years old. LOL
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Post by Reload3006 Fri Nov 26, 2010 4:07 pm

Oh yea for you Smoke pole users like me if you have an inline smoke pole that uses 209 primers use the regular ones for shotgun shell reloading they are the Same thing and usually about 2 dollars a hundred cheaper
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Post by Daywalker Fri Nov 26, 2010 7:13 pm

I was talking to a friend about the 209 primers the other day comparing them to shotshells. I noticed that on the package for muzzle loaders the big warning was Do not use for shotguns. The thought was maybe since its loose powder, the primer was not required to be as hot. Good to know they are the same...

I do a once a year buy now for primers. I order from powdervalley. Around here, getting 1k of primers for under 35.00 is rare. Most of the time they are still around the 45.00 mark. Just like gas, sellers seen that reloaders will pay that price and now they just leave it. It is just a shame. So, getting them from powdervalley, the wolf brand, 25.00 bucks is well worth it. Plus I will get powder at the same time since they will combine them under one hazmat fee...
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Post by Blade Sat Nov 27, 2010 3:14 pm

victor8881: I found that using a medium burning powder works best for cast boolits, just a idea though, thought you could try that. Unless of course you get good results with faster burning powders. Hopefully I'll be able to get a hold of a 9mm 6 cavity mold by January for my brother in-law's 9mm and mine when i get my license for it... lol

Other then that, start at a minimum charge and work your way up and feel how it shoots compared to factory ammo, if your load is to weak, you will have a lot of feeding problems.

The reason why the bullets is heavier then it's stated 125gr. is because the alloy the people use to do the initial testing is a harder type of lead, which means it most likely has more lino type in it. My Lee .358 150gr. mold for my 38sp. drops out at .359 or .360 and it's more or less 152gr. in weight. I'm also just using wheel weights and my lead is about 8.2 BHN.

Hope this clears up a phew things.
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