30-06 sabot loads!
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Re: 30-06 sabot loads!
that is cool thanks for that info i will be sure to try that i got plenty of poly fill laying around but il have to steal a roll of tp out of my guest bath lol they dont need it anyways!!
dartfreak75- Member
- Posts : 1182
Join date : 2010-11-21
Age : 39
Location : southwest va
Re: 30-06 sabot loads!
Using the TP takes a little experimentation to get the pressure that you press the TP down to the base of the cartridge.
I use a small wooden flat based hardwood dowel. I mark the depth that I pushed the TP down with a magic marker on a piece of masking tape until I get the depth right.
Once I get the depth and the correct pressure to hold the TP and the powder charge to the base, I mark the dowel with the marker.
It takes some practice but I used a stainless steel bowel on my table and would use a spent cartridge to test that the powder would remain against the primer even if the cartridge was inverted.
At first some of the powder will leak out from around the TP into the bowel until you get it right.
One nice thing about Polyfill is that almost immediately you can get the powder to remain against the primer and none will leak past.
However, the TP takes a little fooling around until you learn how to fold it and pack it in the case so that it expands enough to seal the powder against the primer.
With small powder charges in a large rifle case, the sabot rounds powder charge need to be against the primer for consistant ignition.
I have had some early sabot rounds fail to ignite or hang fire with a long delay until the powder charge finally lights.
Nice thing about smaller rifle cartridges like the .30 carbine and .30-20, is they are less likely to need as much TP or Polyfill to hold the powder charge against the primer.
I used to use the nasty TP from the MRE packs that you never want to use on your southern end unless in dire emergency.
I use a small wooden flat based hardwood dowel. I mark the depth that I pushed the TP down with a magic marker on a piece of masking tape until I get the depth right.
Once I get the depth and the correct pressure to hold the TP and the powder charge to the base, I mark the dowel with the marker.
It takes some practice but I used a stainless steel bowel on my table and would use a spent cartridge to test that the powder would remain against the primer even if the cartridge was inverted.
At first some of the powder will leak out from around the TP into the bowel until you get it right.
One nice thing about Polyfill is that almost immediately you can get the powder to remain against the primer and none will leak past.
However, the TP takes a little fooling around until you learn how to fold it and pack it in the case so that it expands enough to seal the powder against the primer.
With small powder charges in a large rifle case, the sabot rounds powder charge need to be against the primer for consistant ignition.
I have had some early sabot rounds fail to ignite or hang fire with a long delay until the powder charge finally lights.
Nice thing about smaller rifle cartridges like the .30 carbine and .30-20, is they are less likely to need as much TP or Polyfill to hold the powder charge against the primer.
I used to use the nasty TP from the MRE packs that you never want to use on your southern end unless in dire emergency.
scorge30- Member
- Posts : 675
Join date : 2010-11-27
Age : 57
Location : Marysville, WA
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