Buck/Slug Reloading Is This Right?

Years ago before the steel shot regulations were instituted I used to do lots of trap shooting, duck hunting, rabbit/squirrel hunting, and deer hunting, but after steel shot was forced on us I traded the shot shell reloader and concentrated all my reloading/shooting/hunting efforts on rifle and handgun. I never did do any buckshot or slug reloading back then because factory slug loads were cheap and plentiful and the use of buckshot for deer hunting is prohibited where I live. I can remember when a box of 25 12 gauge 2 3/4" 1 ounce slugs cost what two 5 packs of the same slugs sell for today.

However, thanks to Wiederlader's videos and the high cost or availability of ammunition my interest has piqued to start reloading buckshot and slugs and of course now that my new Lee Loadall II is on it's way to my house I have a question. Is it correct to assume that any 12 gauge 1 ounce 2 3/4" reloading manual recipe can be used to create a 1 ounce 2 3/4" slug or 8 pellet 00 buckshot load as long as all components used in the load will fit well enough into the hull to achieve the proper crimp? I'm not an envelope pusher and slug or buckshot loads of between 1200 - 1300 FPS within pressure limits is more than enough to satisfy me.

You should be ok with the buckshot...or any shot size for that matter as long as the weight is the same. As for slugs...I think I'd use load data for slugs...I think the pressures are higher with slugs than with shot. I could be wrong...Pathfinder should know for sure since he has done alot of testing on his drive-key slugs.

Hey Hawcer, thank you for your reply and I very much respect your advice on this subject and I will wait for Pathfinder as you advised.

While waiting for Pathfinder to reply to this thread I have been doing some searching on the subject matter. I didn't realize this was such a controversial subject with two opposing schools of thought and up until recently with no scientific test data to back either side's views. Then I stumbled on this thread http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=107590 it's long with plenty of information to digest, but well worth reading to the end, if you're curious about shotgun payload substitution. I will still wait for Pathfinder's input into this subject, but I must admit the information from Castboolits is very impressive.

i would never subsitute shotgun data, let alone slug vs shot.

chingachkook,
when you purchase a Lee slug mold you also get reloading data for both their 7/8th and 1oz. slugs. the Lee dipper that comes with the mold is the 2.2cc dipper. here is a photo of the reloading data.HTH
Rick

Hey Guys, please let me explain something before you all end up thinking I am some rebellious reloading hotrodder who's gonna shoot his eye out. That isn't the case or me at all. One of the simple reasons people start reloading to begin with is to tailor their ammunition to their needs and in essence that's all I'm trying to accomplish and my needs are reduced power/recoil/velocity slug and buckshot shotgun ammunition, as I stated in my first post in this thread.

I appreciate all your concern and all your advice and I am thankful to all who have taken the time to post in this thread and please by all means continue to do so, but all I am trying to accomplish are loads that are more in line with trap loads, reduced power/reduced recoil.

If you haven't read the thread from Castboolits that I linked to in a previous post I would suggest that you do so because you won't be disappointed. I know it's long and at some points it gets very technical, but it's well worth the read.

chingachkook,
i don't think anyone here thinks you are a hotrodder. why? because you are asking the question on where to start on reloading the slugs you are getting from pathfinder. i posted the reloading data to give you a starting point in which to start. i myself use 20 grains of GreenDot behind the Lee 1oz. slug and makes a nice shooting round. just remember to not exceed the data above and you can always drop the charge down to fit your needs. as for the question, can you use shot data for slug and buck loads.... well i do but i keep the levels down to trap load levels and have never had any problems with over pressure. just don't try shooting slugs through a full choke bore. buck and slugs are intented to be shot through improved cylinder bore. i find that for lite kicking loads GreenDot works the best. HTH
Rick

Finding light buck shot loads is easy. Alliant re-loaders guide has data in there so does Hodgdons. I have to echo Rick I think you are wise to be cautious wise to ask questions.
All that being said I did read the thread and for the most part agree with it. I have been loading shotgun shells since the 60z I have a good number of the Lyman re-loaders manuals. And the line in them that I hear all the time is Copy this load exactly substituting no components Period.
Let me start off by saying that is the absolute SAFEST line of action. But it was also a keep me from getting my butt sued off line too. Another thing you will see on all reloading literature is a responsibility disclaimer.
with that caveat out of the way.
Yes you can safely substitute components. But be smart. as the thread says if your load is at maximum and the pressures are stated at max and you substitute components you can indeed blow up your gun.
However if you are logical reasonable (don't go playing mad scientist adding this and that to see what will happen) you can develop your own loads safely accurately and with great success. But I caution you to be wise in your choices because unwise hand loading can spell maim or death.

I always follow the load data when reloading. I have a ton of Remington GunClubGreen 2 3/4 shot shells right now. So I tried to find data that will work for those shells. I use the Hodgdon Load Data web page. I find it has a lot of data and is very user friendly.
Heres the link. http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
I also looked in my Modern Reloading second edition by Richard Lee.

Chapter 12: Page#184
Shotgun shells come in many colors, paper and different plastics, high and low brass, and some with no brass. Trap and skeet shells are the best shells for reloading. They reload easier and last longer than other hulls. A desirable features they usually have the greatest internal capacity and are usable for trap, field, magnum and slug loads. The length of the brass head has no effect. Its only function is sales appeal. I Strongly suggest using trap and skeet shells for all of your shot shell reloading. Other types of cases can be loaded. If you have a supply use them, they work well but wont last as long and the crimp will not be as neat.

Chapter 12: Page#196, Paragraph#3
Consider these advantages. Slugs are easily and quickly cast from scrap lead. Use standard wads and very re loadable trap cases. Any shot shell reloading tool works fine. Simply substitute the slug for the shot and use the correct powder charge. Be certain to follow the load data supplied with the mold.

I guess my take away from these paragraphs is try to use trap and skeet shells if you can though any shell will work provided you use the proper data for that shell.

Holy mackerel, some really informative responses here and I thank each and every one of you Gentlemen for your input and appreciate everything that's been discussed.

Rick, No bull that 20.0 gr. Green Dot load from Alliant's website is the one I had my eye on right from the start, but I figured I'd reduce it to 19.5 grs and work my way to the 20.0 grs. Thank you.

Reload3006, The load Rick quoted and the one I plan to use is, according to Alliant's website 8,700 Psi and is I believe well below max pressure. Like you I've been reloading since the 60's and I learned many, many moons ago that in reloading safety always comes first. I appreciate your cautions and warnings because they are proof that members here care about their brother members safety more than agreeing with some hair brained idea. Thank you sir.

Pathfinder, All I have at the present are Winchester AA hulls, but I have read good things about those new to me Remington hulls and probably will give them a try in the future. I also have Mr. Lee's Modern Reloading 2nd edition, but I'm house and dog sitting for my son at the present and all my reloading books are at home. I did think about checking Modern Reloading when I got home, but that won't be for a couple of days. I thank you for the information you have contributed to this thread and the knowledge that goes along with that contribution.

I thank everyone who contributed, you guys are the greatest and ATG is by far the friendliest reloading web site I have every visited.